OUR TRIP TO GERMANY & ENGLAND 2005

HANDS ACROSS THE WATER

Our trip began in December of 2004, and little did we know that it would ever come to be.  The Jolly Rogues and the Ladies Remembered had traveled to Tewkesbury, England at the request of a friend in July 2004.  Our goal was to aid the Tewkesbury Battlefield Society raise money to save a battlefield from 1471.  Having managed in July of 2004 to do just that, Jim Murray looked for another country and avenue to conquer.  And that is just what he and the Jolly Rogues did.

Music is a universal conduit in any language and Jim used that to arrange a tour of  Northern Germany and the Baltic Sea area.  Music groups from The Netherlands, Germany and other European countries have large festivals each year.  Murray researched it on the web and made contact with a Chanty Choir from the Netherlands.  The Rogues were off and running. With the help of the chanty choir leader from the Netherlands, Murray made contact with the Oldenburg choir and the trip was cemented with the common language of music.

The trip began with a flight to Heathrow and a shuttle to Hamburg, Germany.  Even being in a different country, things remain the same.  Lost instruments between Heathrow and Hamburg was the greatest concern.  The trip from the Hamburg Airport started this adventure.  And some things are universal.  Leaving the airport, we ran into road construction. But that was minor.   Being in a car with someone who’s idea of the USA was a version of Johnny Cash on the radio, gave Murray a moment’s hesitate, but that was short lived.

The northern country side was beautiful with large expanses of wheat and oats growing everywhere.  The fields looked like a patchwork quilt separated by rows of trees and shrubs.  The horizon was dotted with gleaming blades of the industrial windmills at collectively formed windmill farms, used to generate the area’s electricity.  After several miles these  became a common site, just as the Walmart, McDonalds and Burger Kings did.

Our first stop was in Oldenburg, where the Rogues and Ladies were housed with members of the Oldenburg Chanty Choir and their families.  Some Rogues were luck enough to have at least one English speaking member of the family.  But that didn’t stop the fun.  The second  day centered around a tour of the city.  Oldenburg’s population for a small town as the hosts told us was l25,000 people.  When we mentally combined the total of our hometowns, we were a little short on that population.    The town is a mixture of old and new.  The old town center being where our hosts took us.  There were buildings dating back to the early 15 and 16 century, as well as a reconstructed version of a Olde Oldenburg with buildings with thatched roofs and living history demonstrations etc.  We felt right at home.

Oldenburg is located between Bremen and the border of the Netherlands.  On the outskirts of the town is a large lake with tributaries to the Rhine River.  It was in a building on the edge of the lake that the Jolly Rogues and two other chanty choirs performed to a packed house of 400.  It was interesting to hear the same songs the Rogues sing, done in a choir format.  After the concert, the groups made their way to a function hall and the music continued to the early hours of the morning.

Off to Dahme in the morning, Murray again put his faith in music.  His e-mail contact had  arranged for a bus coming from the Netherlands to pick up the Rogues and Ladies for the 4 hour drive to Dahme.  Again they were is a position of uncertainty.   Did anyone on the bus speak English?  Traveling through the countryside gave the group an opportunity to see the beautiful area as well as examine the other passengers.  Finally the silence was broken by a member of the chanty choir and it was not long before the Rogues and the Zultsinger choir were each sing out their versions of the same songs.  It is amazing that all of a sudden the was conversation in English.

Arriving in Dahme on Friday afternoon , the Rogues stayed in a Bed and Breakfast not far from the beaches and the Promenade.  After getting settled, it was off to the Festival Tents.  Walking along the beach, the views were spectacular.  In the distance, 2- masted square riggers or tall ships could be seen.   The beaches were spotless and  the sands white and clean.  The beaches were dotted with small wicker cabana chairs. Of various colors.  This added depth and personality to the beach., and provided  beach goers shelter and relief from the sun and breezes.

The performance tent was just off the beach.  At one end was the stage and the other  end the bier garden.
Needless to say the beers flowed.  The festival was opened with a dinner for the choirs and their guests.  The dinner fare consisted of the area specialties, pickled herring and eel as well as fried potatoes.  And lots of beer.  The custom in the area is the down the pickled herring in one gulp.  Naturally, a member of the Rogues had to do just that to prove he was worthy to sing with the best of choirs.  The performance tent would be the food tent, the concert tent and the meeting place for all the choirs.  This tent is where lasting friendships are rekindled each year and new ones are made.

The festival consisted of  two locations for performances, the tent and an open air stage with the ocean and beach as a back drop.  People would sit on the promenade in front of little bistros and listen to the music.  It seemed that each choir had it’s own followers.  And the Rogues had been adopted by all.  It was with great sadness, that the Rogues said their good-byes to the newly found friends.  Invitations were issued to return in the spring of 2006 to a large festival.

Monday morning it was off to London and  the second leg of our trip.   We arrived  at our destination in mid-afternoon.  Our resort was Walton Hall, the manor house to a small hamlet just north of Strafford upon Avon.  The manor set off the main road by over a mile.  The narrow, almost a single lane road took you through wheat and hay fields, past pasture land complete with sheep, cows and horses.  The manor had it’s own stable, golf course, skeet shooting range and archery as well as the usual amenities.  Being busy Americans, we didn’t take advantage of any of the things.

However, Tuesday presented itself. And off we when to meet the Bard of Strafford.  The Rogues traveled the 7 miles in an hour.  You see it isn’t a road trip unless we get lost several times.  Strafford upon Avon was beautiful.  Going from modern to 16th century architecture, provided a visual contrast that was to be marveled.  Our education was continued by a tour of Shakespeare’s birthplace, a visit to his museum and tours of homes belonging to his family.  The most awe inspiring moment was in The Trinity Cathedral.  There inside the alter rail was Shakespeare’s grave, complete with his curse.  To realize that this church had withstood time, death and a stray German bomb from WWII, the writer felt completely humbled.

Again music and friends played a role in our return to England.  Tewkesbury and the Tewkesbury Battle Field Society requested our presents.  Concert time.  This year  as we did last year, the Rogues performed a benefit for the Battle Field Society.  And to this date, the Rogues have provided just under 10% of the funds needed by the Society to save the battle field and the erect a monument.  This concert also gave the Rogues a chance to reconnect with friends from last year.  As always, the English are proper hosts and hostesses.

Thursday and Friday were spectacular.  Thursday was a free day.  Half the group went to Oxford with its museums and  colleges.  There they saw musical instruments that were over 500 to 600 years old.  They visited  Oxford University.   The others made the long drive southward to Stonehenge and Salisbury. 
Stonehenge, the two novices were told had become very commercialized since the 1970’s when the drummer had last visited.  But the others were greatly impressed.  But the best, was the Evensong service at the Cathedral in Salisbury.   In this last cavernous church, the voices of the children’s choir resonated in angelic tones.   But being historians by hobby, the Magna Carta was the most impressive of all.  To see one of the last remaining original copies of  something written and preserved since 1215 and to understand that the laws of the civilized world have been based on this single piece of paper was something indescribable.

Friday brought the adventure of Warwick Castle, where the feudal lords lived.  The castle has been used to show the regal history from the 1500’s to the early 20th century.  Displays were based on every time period, with museum rooms filed with armour and relics, clothing and furniture.  It was not hard to imagine after touring the castle just how difficult it was for the peasants to live under conditions of the time. 

At last the day we had been dreading for the last 2 weeks.  It was time to leave the new friends, the music and the enlightenment of  our travels and return home.  But one last stop to Runny Meade, just outside of London.  This is where the Magna Carta was signed in 1215 by King John and the barons.  On a hill, in an open meadow which was bordered on one side by the Thames,  the writer could envision the colored banners and tents of all the lords, earls and dukes who had work so hard to draw up a document that has stood the test of time.

As with any great adventure, it has it beginnings and it’s end.  Back to reality and the knowledge that new adventures await the Jolly Rogues next year.  Be it Germany, France or even China.
June 9,2005 Bad Zwischenahn
Dahme Shanty Poster featuring the Jolly Rogues
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